Permanent wave apparatus



Oct. 6, 1931. P. KUNIAN ET AL PERMANENT WAVE APPARATUS Filed Dec. 22,1928 2 Sheets-Sheet l Oct. 6, 1931. P. KUNIAN ET AL PERMANENT WAVEAPPARATUS Filed Dec. 22, 1928 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 7 Patented be. 6, 1931jLEUNITED @STATE'S PATarrr OFFICE PAUL-KUNIAN AN Joint s'rmr, orMINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA; SAID STEN assrenon 1 TO SAID KUNIAN I ratus foreffecting a so-called PERMANENT WAV arrmrus.

l .l Application filed December 22, 1928. Serial No. 327,925.

' This invention relates to apparatus for curling hair and moreparticularly to appapermanent wa-ve upon human hair.

. It is an object of our invention to provide novel permanent Waveapparatus by the use of which an operator may quickly and etfi cientlycoil and prepare'the hair for the heat ing or steaming step in' theprocess of perma nent waving.

- A further object is to providei'simple and 7 eflicientpermanent waveapparatus, including a novel winding device and a holder therefor whichis adapted to facilitate and expedite the winding or'coiling of thelocks of ,hair andwhich furthermore enables the 'coiled lock tobe'tightened efficiently after lhe winding device is inserted in theholder or in the heating unit. I

Another object is to provide apparatus of the class described, includingsaid novel hair winding device, a combined clamping and holding deviceassociated therewith, and an efliclent heating unit adapted to cooperatewith the winding device and the holdin de.- vice to enclose the coiledlock and su ject the same to the rop'er intensity of heat.

A further ob ect is to provide apermanent waving apparatus which may bequickly andeasily applied to the hair with the maximum amount of comfortto the person treated.

I crence characters refer to similar parts These and other objects andadvantagesof the invention will be apparent from the followingdescription madein connection with he accompanying drawings, whereinlike refthroughout the several views and in which,

Fig. 1 is a 'side elevation 'of our improved hair winding devicecomprising an element of our apparatus, said-view iltustrating themanner in which the hair isattached to the.

' winding spool for initial winding;

. Fig. 2 is a similar view of saldwinding device showing-the manner inwhich a lock of hair is wound and disposed upon said spool; Fig. 3 is atop plan view of 'a combined spool holder and clamp constitutinganotherof the elements-of our apparatus, the dotted lines indicating'the openposition of one of the lamping ja v tion to illustrate Fig. 4 is a frontelevation showing one of Fig. 6 is a front elevation showing ourapparatus assembled to effect a wave upon alock of hair;

permanent I Fig. 7 is an elevation of one end of the same; a Fig; Sis anelevation of the opposite end of said assembled apparatus, some parts being broken away and others shownin secthe construction of the heaterunit;

. Fig. 9 is a view mostly in longitudinal section illustrating theconstruction of. our

winding device, some portions being broken away and others shown infull;

Fig. 10 is a cross section taken on the be 10 10 of Fig. 9.;

Fig. 11 is a cross section taken on the line 1111 of Fig. 9, showing theend of the winding spool in elevation;

Fig. 12 is a top plan view of the winding spool v Fig. 13 is alongitudinal section illustrating' a slightly diiferent'form of windingspool; an

Fig. 14 is a plan view of the blank, from which a casing of the heatingunit'is constructed, the dotted lines indicating where said blank isfolded to assume the shape illus:

trated in'Figs..6 to 8 inclusive.

The embodiment of the invention illus- I I trated in the drawings,comprises three essential elements, namely, a winding device, a combinedclamp and winding spool holder and heating unit adapted to.cooperatewith said first mentioned parts toform a housing surrounding a coiledlock of hair upon the winding spool.

As illustrated, the type ofwinding device showninFigs. 1 to 12,inclusive comprises a.. hollow spool having substantially cylindricalends 15aand a diminished central portion 15b small drum 17 is housedbeing of less diameter than the diameter of the spool end 15a. A washeror other suitable abutment 186 may be nested within the end 15a limitedin longitudinal-movement by the tapered portion of the spool, thiswasher abutting the innerend of drum 17.

The said end 15a of the spool may have an inturned extremity 150preventing out-ward displacement of the drum 17 Drum 17 carries anoutwardly projecting openended boss 17a which is preferably flattened ontwo opposite sides, as shown in Fig. 11 in order that drum 17 may benon-rotatably connected with a holding element. At the opposite end 15aof the spool, a trunnion 15d is provided adapted to be .rotatablymounted in the holding element. A coiled brake spring 18 surrounds drum17 and is housed within the end of said spool, said coiled spring havingone of its ends secured to said drum at 18a and having its opposite endfree. For winding the spool 15 we provide a suitable handle 19 having ashank. 19a of small diameter which is adapted to be inserted through theflattened boss 17a of drum 17 and inwardly within spool 15, said shankhaving a slotted inner end adapted to interlock with a diametricallydisposed pin 20 in the medial portion of the spool. Preferably the shank19a has a frictional connection with the handle 19 to permit the handleto be turned independently of the shank in one direction. Asillustrated, a small sleeve 19?) is concentrically disposed withinhandle 19 surrounding the outer end of shank 19a and a; coiled spring 40surrounds the diminished outer extremity of shank 19a having one of itsends 40a fixed to said shank. Obviously, when the handle is-turned incounterclockwise direction it will be released from frictionalengagement with the spool by the tendency to wind the spring 40 and whenturned in clock wise direction ,the tendency will be to unwind thespring thereby frictionally engaging the sleeve 19?) to rigidly connectthe parts.

A combined hair clamp and spool holder is provided comprising a pair ofpivoted jaws 21 and 22. respectively. As illustrated jaw 21 has anangnlarly disposed free end 21a in the same plane with the elongatedbody thereof, said end 21a carrying an upstanding holding bracket 21?).which has'an upper semicylindrical portion and a slot 210 extending fromthe forward edge to the central portion thereof and declined slightlyfrom the horizontal. The second clamping member 22 has an angularlydisposed end 22a which is pivoted to the straight end of clamping member21, said end 22a carrying a bracket 22?) of similar construction to thebracket 21?) and provided with a similar spool retaining slot 220. Thefree end 21a of clamping member 21 is provided with a small spring latchelement 21d which is adapted to engage the outer edge .of clampingmember 22 when the two members are swung together into clampingposition. Incidently, the inward movement of jaws 21 and 22 are limitedby suitable abutting surfaces on the contacting portions of the freeends thereof. The inner edges of the two clamping jaws are straight andare disposed in parallel relationwhen the jaws are closed and each edgecarries a clainping strip 23 which may be constructed of rubber 26, thecorresponding retaining clips on the oppotwo clamping jaws asillustrated being sitely arranged; I

A suitable steaming pad is utilized in connection with our apparatus andis disposed about the coiled lock of hair, as' shown in Fig. 5. This padcomprises an inner rectangular sheet of absorbentmaterial 27 adapted tohold the hair treating solution, said sheet being stitched or otherwiseconnected to a doubled sheet of foil 27a or some other material adaptedto retain its shape and said foil sheet has a sheet of paper orparchment 27b superimposed thereover, which surrounds the entire padwhen'the same is applied to a coil of hair. Preferably our steam pad hasa pair of wires W projecting from the free edge of the absorbent sheet27, said wires being adapted to extend beneath the coiled lock and to bewrapped around the parchment of the pad to retain the padin'c'ylindrical shape about the coil of hair. I

A suitable electric heating unit is adapted to cooperate with theelements previously described and may be releasably secured to theclamping members by means of the re taining clips 26. V

As illustrated, our heating unit comprises a 'thin hollow casing 28 of'U-shaped cross section provided with parallel longitudinal Each of the.

edges 2811 which may have external beads disposed longitudinallythereof, said beads being adapted to be releasably' engaged by thespring clips 26 on our combined clamping and holding element. Anupstanding handle 29 constructed of some non-conductive ma-' terial, issecured to the upper and central portion of the casing 28 and electricservice wires L may extend through the handle 29 suitably connectedwith-an electric heating element E disposed within casing 28 andinsulated therefrom by a suitable sheet of insulatin 'material I. Byreference. to Figs.

{5,7 an 8,'it will be seen that when the heating unit is connected withthe combined clamp and holder that the winding spool 15 will be entirelyenclosed by said first mentioned elements, the upstanding brackets 216at the' two ends of the clamp substantially closing ends are then formedin the U shape illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8 and the extremities T I ofthe end portions arebent outwardly on -the linesX, saidportions Tsubstantially abutting forming a shank portion adapted to be securedwithin a slot in handle member 29 by suitable means, such as screws S.The extreme portions T each have their central portion bulged at Q toform a vertical passage when the blank is shaped -within the handle 29accommodatingthe service wires I1 and facilitating the connection ofsaid service wires with the heating element E.

Narrow side flaps F extend from body B and may be folded, inwardlyaroundthe ad-- Qjacent edges of the bent end ortions on the lines Y andZ to close the en p of the casing. InF1g.'13 a slightly differentembodiment of winding spool is. shown than that illustrated in Figs-9 to11, inclusive. As shown in Fig.13, spool 30,'similar in general shape tothe spool 15 is provided having a short cylindrical shaped end 300:provided with an axial opening to accommodate the shank of the windinghandle. A small brake drum 31 is superimposed about said end 30a of'said 'spool, spaced therefrom and may be retained on said end by meansof an inturned {flange 31a on the inner edge thereof and an x inturnedflange 31b surrounding and engaging the adjacent extremity of the spool.Brake drum 31 carries an outwardly project- Qing axially disposed hollowboss 31c preferably flattened on two opposte sides in the manner of theboss illustrated in Fig. 11 for non-rotative engagement of one of theslotted A portions 21c of the holding element. Aeoiled spring 32 isdisposed between the brake drum 31 and the and 30a of the spool and hasone of its ends 32a fixed to the-spool, while its opposite end is free.

Operatz'Mt; it

. The operation of our apparatus mayv briefly described as follows:

-The shank 19a of the winding element is first inserted within one ofthewiuding spools with its inner forked end interlocked with thediametric pin of the spool.

The end of a lock of hair is connected for winding with the winding.spool 15 by raising the attachment clip 16,-clamping the end of the lockagainst the body of'tlie spool. The spool may then be held with one handand the handle 19 turned through partial revolutions inclockwisedirection. By reference to Figs. 1 and 2, it willbe seen that when .thehandle 19 is turned in clockwise direction, the tendency will be touncoil the brake spring 40 therein, producing a frictional connectionbetween said handle and its shank 19a whereby the spool 15 may beturned. The handle may'then be turned through a partial revolution incounterclockwise direction, while the spool and lock of hair is heldwith one hand, the counterclockwise turning of handle.19 tending totighten the spring about shank 19a and permitting a slip connectionbetween shank 19a and handle 19. Thus, the

lock of hair may be continuously wound upon the spool without releasingone hand therefrom by oscillating the handle member 19 insuring' smoothand ellicient winding of the lock. Since thespool 15 hasv a diminishedcentral portion, the lock will be spread over the central area of thespool, the severalcoils beingsuperimposed, thus coiling the severalstrands of hair most efliciently. Fig. 2 illustrates the appearance ofthe coiled look upon the spool when the desired amount of hairhas beenwound.

1 Spool 15 with the lock of hair wound thereon is next inserted withinthe combined clamping and holding device, the hair first being clampedadjacent the scalp by the aws 21 and 22, the clamp being efiicient-lyretained u on the look by means of the latch 2111..

runnion 15d'of the spool is slipped into one of the slotted portions 210of the holder, while the flattened boss 1711 at the opposite end of thespool is non-rotatively connected with the slotted portion 220 at theopposite end of the holder. The spool cannot be unwound 1ncounterclockwise direction because of the truetional engagement betweenthe brake spring 18 with the interior of the spool. The spool can,however, be turned in clockwise direction'to further tighten the look ifthe same is desired, clockwise rotation tightening spring18 andpermitting turning of the spool while the drum is held stationary.

The next step in preparing the lock disposed around the lock and thefoil 27a and for the I I steaming process is to surround the lock withposed about said absorbent sheet, the edges of the pad being disposedbeneath the lock. The wires 1V, connected with the absorbent sheet arepassed beneath the spool at the sidesof the lock and are wound about theupper portion of the pad, serving to retain the same in operativeposition about the lock. Further winding of the spool in clockwisedirection will tend to draw one edge of the pad inwardly against theupper surface of the clamping elements tightening the same about thelock- The winding implement 19 may now be withdrawn from engagement withthe winding spool and the combined clamping and holding element with thespool and look attached thereto may be readily'inserted within thecasing 28 of the heater unit, spring clips 26 yieldingly engaging theheads at the longitudinal edges of casing 28.

It will be seen from inspection of Figs. 6 to 8, inclusive, that thecooperation of heating unit 28 and the holding and clamping elementaffords eflicient enclosure for the coiled lock subjecting the same tothe heat produced by heating element E within heater casing 28. The topsurfaces of clamping jaws 21 and 22 are preferably metallic to absorb,reflect and radiate heat to uniformly steam the lock.

After the process of steaming the heater unit may be quickly detached,the spool then detached from the holding element and th lock unwoundfrom the spool.

It will be further seen that since the lock is securely clamped by theelements 21 and 22 adjacent the scalp there will be a minimum pulling onthe hair when the spool and heater elements are attached to theclamping'and holder elements. Moreover, the scalp of the subject will beprotected from heat by the thick felt pads 24 on the bottom of clampingelements 21 and 22. The construction of the winding spool and itsassociated winding element permits a lock of hair to be wound andtightened efi iciently when the spool and lock is held in one hand andalso when the spool is connected with the holding element.

The form of winding spool illustrated in Fig. 13, operates on theidentical principle with the spool 15, the operation of which has beendescribed. the brake spring 32 frictionally engaging the drum 21 whenthe winding element is turned in one direction or permitting the spoolto be turned independ ently of the drum when the handle is turned in theopposite direction.

From the foregoing description it will be I seen that we have invented anovel and highly efiicient apparatus for permanently waving human hairadapted to greatly expedite the preparation of the locks for steamingand J further adapted to permit curling of the hair more uniformly andefficiently and to afford greater comfort to the subject during theprocess.

It will, of course, be understood that various changes may be made inthe form, details, arrangement and proportions of the parts withoutdepartingfrom the scope of the invention.

What is claimed is:

1. In permanent wave apparatus, a winding device comprising a spool, animplement for winding'said spool, a brake drum associatedwith one end ofsaid spool and means associated with said drum for frictionallyconnecting said drum and said spool when it is adapted to turn saidspool in one direction and for permitting said spool to be turnedindependently of said drum in the opposite direction, and a holdingelement in which one end of said spool may be journaled and in whichsaid drum may be non-rotatably mounted.

2. The structure set forth in claim 1, wherein said frictional meanscomprises a coiled spring concentrically disposed between one end ofsaid spool and said drum and having an anchored end and a free end.

3. In permanent wave apparatus, a winding device comprisinga spool, awinding element comprising a shank non-rotatively engageable with saidspool, a handle surrounding the outer end of said shank and slipclutchmeans between said shank and said handle adapted I to cause saidhandle and shank to be rigidly connected when said handle is turned inone direction and to be relatively loosely connected when said handle isturned in the opposite direction.

4. In permanent wave apparatus, a winding spool, a holding frame whereinsaid spool is mounted, friction clutch mechanism associated with one endof said spool comprising a member non-rotatably connected to saidholding frame, and friction means between said last mentioned member andsaid spool adapted to hold said spool against rotary movement-in onedirection but permitting the rotary movement of said spool in theopposite direction.

5. In permanent wave apparatus,-a winding spool, a holding elementwherein said spool is adapted to be mounted, a'friction drum associatedwith one end of said spool, and a resilient friction element interposedbetween said drum and a portion of said spool, whereby said spool may beturned in one direction, but will be held frictionally against turningin the opposite direction. v

6. In permanent wave apparatus, a wind ing spool, a spool holding memberhaving clamping elements adapted to engage a lock of hair, means on saidholding element wherein sa id spool may be detachably mounted, africtlon drum associated with one endof said spool and non rotatablyconnectable with said last mentionedmeans, and a coiled springinterposed between said drum and a portion of said spool to hold saidspool against rota tive movement in onedirection and to permit rotativemovement of said spool in the opposite direction. o

In testimony whereof we afiix 0u r signatures. v

PAUL KUNIAN.

JOHN STEN.

